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Messages - Saurabh_B

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OLEDs / Re: Mouser Oled
« on: July 17, 2015, 02:14:44 PM »
Those pins are not on the display correct, they're pins that should be on the Level Shifter.

If you take a look at page 3 of the DATASHEET , Michael linked you to, you will find those pins.

The DIR pin controls the direction of shift, whether the signals go from Port A to B or B to A.

The /OE is an Active Low output enable signal. Again both of these pins are on the level shifter.

OLEDs / Re: Mouser Oled
« on: July 17, 2015, 12:31:44 PM »
Those are pins that would be on a level shifter and not the OLED. 4050 is the part number for level shifter

By any chance do you have another MCU that is 3.3V instead?

OLEDs / Re: Mouser Oled
« on: July 17, 2015, 12:09:46 PM »
Code: [Select]
#define   SDI_PIN    1    // SDI (serial mode) signal connected to pin 1
#define   SCL_PIN    0    // SCL (serial mdoe) signal connected to pin 0
#define    RS_PIN    8    // RS signal connected to pin 8
#define    RW_PIN    9    // R/W (6800 mode) signal connected to pin 9
#define    WR_PIN    9    // /WR (8080 mode) signal connected to pin 9
#define     E_PIN   10    // E (6800 mode) signal connected to pin 10
#define    RD_PIN   10    // /RD (8080 mode) signal connected to pin 10
#define   RES_PIN   11    // /RES signal connected to pin 11
#define    CS_PIN   12    // /CS signal connected to pin 12
#define   BS1_PIN   A0    // BS1 signal connected to pin A0
#define   BS0_PIN   A1    // BS0 signal connected to pin A1
#define   LVL_DIR   A2    // DIR (direction control) signal of level shifter IC connected to pin A2
#define   LVL_OEN   A3    // /OE (output enable) signal of level shifter IC connected to pin A3

So the pins you need to have connected

OLED                                                                                     Arduino/personal circuit
1,5,6,10,11,12,13,14,15,18,19,20            |                         Ground
2    Vdd                                                        |                         +3.3V
4     D/C                                                       |                         Pin 8   [D/C is often referred to as RS (register select)]
7 SCLK                                                         |                         Pin 0
8 SDI                                                           |                        Pin 1
16 /RES                                                       |                         Pin 11
17 /CS                                                         |                         Pin 12

Again I would recommend using a proper level shifting IC.

TFTs / Re: Backlight brightness with TFT displays (5" and 7")
« on: July 17, 2015, 11:08:05 AM »

The rating for the backlight is 50k Hours, until it reaches half brightness.

You can also bring down the current supplied to the backlight to increase its life.

The led's for the 5" display do draw more current than the ones for the 7".

OLEDs / Re: Mouser Oled
« on: July 17, 2015, 11:01:23 AM »
But the rest of the pins you're using are at 5V. They need to be brought down to 3.3.

What pin do you have D/C connected to on the Arduino?

The example code is verified to work so long as everything is wired up correctly.

OLEDs / Re: Mouser Oled
« on: July 17, 2015, 09:31:57 AM »
I'm not too sure what you mean by cc. But looking at your board the bottom right pin should be pin 1, above that is pin 2, one one on the the bottom next to 1 is 3. The on on the top left should be pin 20. Follow that along with the TABLE on page 4. the sketches again aren't always accurate.

You are might be using the 3.3V output from the Arduino, but everything else going in is 5V. So you can do one of two things to stop it from heating up.

1. Swap out the voltage regulator on the Arduino for a 3.3V and use a dc jack to power it something like 3.3 V Regulator on Mouser


2. Get a level shifter to bring down the 5V coming from your Arduino digital pins to 3.3V. Something Like This

OLEDs / Re: Mouser Oled
« on: July 17, 2015, 08:47:40 AM »
As for the heat the Arduino still uses 5V logic; you want to either modify the voltage regulator on the Arduino or you would need to use a level shifter to bring down the voltage to 3.3V. Although you might be using the 3V output from the Arduino itself to power the chip, the rest of the pins are still applying 5V.

As for the D/C pin,  you do need to have that connected if you're running in 4 line mode. you're probably looking at the last picture which is the 3 line SPI interface. the D/C is a signal that will tell the display whether the incoming information is a command or data.

OLEDs / Re: Mouser Oled
« on: July 16, 2015, 03:53:19 PM »
I think you're looking at the pictures and taking those positions as pin outs. you want to use the pin out numbers listed on page 4. On page 5 the pins are backwards, so pin 1 and 2 on the sketch correspond to pins 20 and 19 respectively. They are also marked BS0 and BS1

On page 4 its telling you that pins 19 and 20 are control pins that tell the display what interface it should expect. Using the last table on page 4 you can see that when both pins are tied to ground or logic 0, the display will behave in a 4 line SPI interface.

Again the locations on the sketch are backwards. In general the sketches are drawn to show how the pins should be wired, and the pins wont be in the same location. You should always use the Interface Description to get accurate Pin locations.

So you should have most of the pins tied to ground like the third image on page 5 suggests, and only 5 wires going from the Display to the digital outputs of the Arduino. for the rest that need to either be tied to ground or Vdd you should just get a breadboard and use the output from the Arduino for ground an Vdd and tie them together.

I was wondering if you would be able to confirm that both R1 and R2 are open on the back of the display. Also for this display the RS232 communications are supposed to be at TTL Logic levels, can you also confirm that this is what you are using for the communication.

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